Basement Waterproofing Specialist

Choosing The Right Siding

This is an excerpt from the Book called “Improvement and Renovation” by Bob Vila. Continue reading to learn more about Choosing The Right Siding, thanks to the author.

Choosing The Right Siding, Preparing The Walls

Beyond the obvious considerations of cost and appearance, your choice of a new siding should take into account the problems of installing a specific siding material, the kind of regular maintenance it will need, and its special physical characteristics, which may make it more or less suitable for your purposes.

The drawing and chart on these pages enable you to compare eight widely available materials. In the drawings, you can compare their surface appearances and judge their suitability to the architecture of your home.

The appearances may be deceiving. Clapboard, stucco and wood shingles and shakes are traditional materials that have set the familiar styles in exterior wall coverings for centuries. The other sidings, developed more recently, are usually shaped and finished to resemble the traditional ones. At their best, these imitations are not wholly successful: The newer types of siding lack the elegance of the old materials. But what they lack in appearance they may make up in economy or convenience. Vinyl, for example, has become a favored material for new siding on both new and old houses because it is relatively inexpensive, easy to install and all but maintenance free. It is factors like these that are compared in the chart at right. Detailed descriptions of all the sidings appear in the remainder of this chapter.

One element of a siding job that does not show up in the drawings or the chart is the exterior wall beneath the siding. Depending on its condition and on the siding you choose, this wall may need some measure of repair or preparation.

Eight Styles Of Siding

A Range Of Materials. The types of siding shown above are varied. Some look alike, but each has distinctive qualities. Some look alike, but each has distinctive qualities. Large, rectangular panels of plywood or hardboard are available unfinished for painting or staining, or in finishes that resemble any of the other materials. Long planks nailed horizontally to walls can be installed in a variety of patterns. Clapboard, the most common, consists of lapped boards tapered toward one edge; in tongue-and-groove siding the board edges are fitted together; in shiplap they are rabbeted and overlapped; board and batten is rough-sawn for a less finished look. In each case the boards can be painted. Vinyl and aluminium are generally designed to resemble clapboard when installed, but come from the factory precolored in several shades.

Wood shingles and shakes are similar in size and identical in material-redwood or cedar-but shingles are milled to an exact and uniform size while shakes are thicker and irregularly shaped. Both can be stained or painted, or in the case of cedar, simply left unfinished for an attractive, weathered look. Masonry siding, represented here by stucco, is made from a wet cement that is spread over a wall in layers. Stucco may be left uncolored; more often, it is either precolored or painted after installation. Its surface may be smooth or textured, lined and grouted, or embedded with light-colored stones.

A Guide to siding materials

Siding type	Cost	Maintenance	Advantages	Limitations
wood panels	inexpensive (unfinished plywood to moderate (finished hardboard)	Periodic painting or staining	quick installation; goes over most existing sidings; available in a wide variety of styles	poor fire resistance; installation always requires two workers, and can be especially difficult at the borders of windows, doors and rake
Clapboard	moderate	Periodic painting or staining	goes over most existing sidings	poor fire resistance; installation requires two workers, some types are subject to rot
board and batten	inexpensive	Periodic painting or staining	quick installation; goes over most existing sidings	poor fire resistance; coverage not as tight as clapboard
vinyl	inexpensive to moderate	none	easily installation; goes over most existing sidings	may melt near intense heat; brittle in very cold weather; narrow range of colors, subject to fading; cannot be painted
aluminum	inexpensive to moderate	none	easily installation; goes over most existing sidings; fire resistant,available in wide variety of styles; can be repainted	scratches and dents easily; may clatter in wind and hail if not insulated; needs electrical grounding
wood shingles	expensive	regular replacement of missing or damaged pieces; regular painting or staining for some woods	goes over most existing sidings; single pieces easily replaced; can be left unfinished for rustic look	flammable unless treated; slow installation
wood shakes	expensive	regular replacement of missing or damaged pieces	goes over most existing sidings; single pieces exceptionally durable and easily replaced; can be left unfinished for rustic look	flammable unless treated; slow installation, often difficult around windows and doors
stucco	moderate	periodic painting	fire resistant; surface can be molded or decorated	requires wire-mesh backing over wall or existing siding; long and difficult installation, requiring special skills, cracks must be done in good weather; or crumbles if incorrectly applied

Comparing Siding Materials. In the chart above, “Cost” refers to the relative cost of each material as compared with all the others; it does not reflect the labor involved in a professional installation. In general, labor costs are considerably higher for the traditional materials-clapboard, wood shingles and shakes and stucco-than for the newer types of siding, most of which are relatively easy to install. With stucco, the materials alone are only moderately expensive, but if professionally installed, it is the most expensive of all sidings. For some materials a range of costs is given. Aluminum, for example, can be bought in two thickness, each with or without an insulation backing. Thin aluminum without backing is inexpensive; thick aluminum with backing is moderately expensive.

With reasonable care, all the materials listed will last as long as the houses they cover. The column headed “Maintenance” indicates what must be done to keep a siding structurally sound and weatherproof. It does not take into account the gradual deterioration of materials like aluminum and vinyl, which, though sound, may look weathered after a number of years.

The last two columns summarize the general advantages and limitations of each material. Under these headings the most important considerations for the amateur are ease of installation and the ability to cover existing siding.

A Solid Base For New Siding

The principal requirement for any type of siding is a flat, sound nailing surface and there are three ways of obtaining it. The old wood siding will do if it is in good condition. If not, the usual solution is to mount furring strips over the old siding- shimming the strips on uneven surfaces-and nail the siding to the strips. The third and most time-consuming way to guarantee a good nailing surface is to remove the old siding and begin as you would with new construction. This often must be done when the old siding is asbestos shingles, crumbling stucco or aluminum-all difficult to nail through to a firm wood backing.

Whichever technique you choose, always begin by removing accessories that could interfere with the re-siding-down-spouts, light fixtures, shutters, decorative trim. You will need professional help if you must temporarily remove a utility meter. It may be necessary to shut down all power; in that case be prepared to mount the necessary pieces of siding quickly so power can be restored.

Preparing the walls for re-siding offers an excellent opportunity to add to wall insulation. If you plan to keep the old siding in place, you can drill holes through it to have loose-fill insulation blown into the stud cavities, or you can mount plastic foam insulation boards between old and new siding. If old siding is removed, install batts or blankets between the studs. If removing cement/asbestos siding, do not saw it or create dust; wear a dust mask or respirator rated to protect against asbestos fibers.

Stripping The Walls

Removing Trim. To save molding and other trim for reuse, pry it off gently with a utility bar. Begin at one end, inserting the flat end of the bar under the molding and tapping the curved end with a hammer. Remove the frieze-the board at the top of the siding under the soffit-only if you plan to replace it with siding. Otherwise, build out the old frieze with an identically sized strip of lumber to meet the projection of the new siding.

Removing Asbestos Shingles. Because brittle asbestos shingles provide a poor nailing surface for new siding, strip them from the walls with a pry bar. Break the shingles near the nailheads and pull off the pieces and backer strips; then pound the nails into the sheathing. Use 15-pound asphalt felt to patch any old felt torn in the process, making sure the new paper overlaps the old by about an inch all around.

Resealing The Walls

Sheathing A Stud Wall. If studs are exposed after removing old siding, add any necessary insulation-with the vapor barrier inside-before sheathing the wall with APA-rated plywood or oriented strand board sheathing rated for the stud spacing of your wall. Mount 4-by-8-foot sheets horizontally for greater rigidity, leaving about 1/4 inch at panel edges and 1/8 inch at panel ends for expansion. Space nails 6 to 12 inches apart on the studs at edges and 12 inches apart along the panel. Do not overlap the board ends at corners, but caulk the seam. Overlap the house foundation by at least an inch, and be sure to nail into the exposed sill.

Sheath behind window casings and door frames by inserting sheathing into space from which old siding has been removed, or by prying off the trim and renailing it over the sheathing.

Nailing Sheathing Paper. For additional moisture protection, especially when siding with stucco, staple or nail a layer of the building paper required by your local building code to the sheathing. Attach the paper in long horizontal rows from the bottom, lapping each row about 4 inches over the row below. Be sure to mount strips of sheathing paper recommended by your local code, at least 8 inches wide, around windows and doors-even if none is used else-where-to reduce drafts.

New Insulation Over The Old Siding

Attaching Plastic Foam Insulation Boards. If the interior wall has no vapor barrier-to keep warm inside air from condensing in the wall-drill-inch vent holes through the old siding and sheathing (left) at the top and bottom of each stud cavity. Nail 2-by-8-foot panels horizontally on the siding. Leave about 1/16-inch space at corners so that trapped vapor can escape. Caution: Use an electric drill only under dry conditions; plug it into a GFCI- protected outlet or use a cordless drill.

Furring For Panels And Horizontal Siding

1. Locating Studs. Find and mark the tops of studs by examining the nailing pattern in your present siding or by using a density sensor. This will establish the stud pattern at 16-inch or 24-inch intervals. Hang a plumb bob and mark the stud bottoms below the siding.
Checking For Straightness. Hold a straight-edge such as a 2-by-4 against the wall vertically, horizontally and diagonally to locate bulges. If possible, pound and nail them into alignment.
Nailing The Furring Strips. Attach 1-by-3-inch furring strips to each stud, using 2 1/2 inch nails at 16-inch intervals to penetrate siding and sheathing. Drive the nails into the high spots of beveled siding. Where the wall bows, shim as necessary to keep the strips straight, checking frequently as in step 2. Fur completely around windows and doors as well; if necessary, saw off projecting sill ends. If you do not plan to use corner boards with the new siding, nail furring strips at corners that do not have existing corner boards or adjacent to existing corner boards, see step 4. If you are re-siding with 4-by-8-foot plywood or hardboard panels, nail horizontal furring strips at the bottom and top of the wall, and at any intermediate point where rows of panels will join.
Installing Corner Boards. For outside corners, attach corner boards as thick as the furring strips plus the new siding, overlapping them at the corner. If corner boards already exist, nail the new ones directly over them. For inside corners (inset), nail a 2-by-2 strip, 1 1/2 inches square, over the old post and the adjacent furring strips. Plane one edge of the new post, if necessary, to ensure a close fit.

Furring For Shingles And Vertical Siding

Laying Out A Story Pole. To align horizontal furring, mark the intervals on a story pole-a straight piece of 1-by-2 inch wood long enough to cover the distance from the soffit to 2 inches below the existing siding. Set a pair of dividers at the height of a single piece of siding and mark the wide side of the pole evenly from top to bottom, squaring the lines with a combination square. Nail the pole tightly to the corners of the house and transfer the makings to the corner boards or furring strips. Snap chalk lines around the house to serve as nailing guides in mounting furring strips.

Furring Out Masonry. Using a story pole and chalk lines to establish the horizontal lines, nail 1-by-4-inch strips to masonry if you are siding with shingles. For vertical board siding, use 1-by-3-inch strips spaced 24 inches apart. Before choosing a type of fastener, consult a knowledgeable representative at your lumber-yard or home supply center: Some will recommend that you drill holes for masonry anchors at 16-inch intervals, fit the anchors through the strips and into the masonry, then drive nails or screws into the anchors. Others will suggest toggle bolts or lead shield anchors.